Tuesday 30th March
Just after we got back to the hotel last night there was a terrific thunderstorm. If we had been 10 minutes later we would have got soaked!
As we reached the bus stop this morning, a taxi pulled up. The driver said he would take us to the airport for the same cost as the bus ( 300 baht - £6), so instead of a bus ride, we had a comfortable and much quicker car.
The airport is very modern, but all the acres of retailing seem to be run by the same organisation ( probably the government) although under different names.
The give-away is that the prices are all uniform, and mis-spellings are consistent across what appear to be different shops.
The flight was smooth and cloudless skies in the first part of the journey allowed us views of snow capped mountains towards the Himalayas, and desert landforms stretching from Afghanistan to the Caspian Sea.
Later it was cloudy, but we got a fine view of London at sunset. After taking the RailAir coach back to Reading, we took a taxi from the station and got home around 9:30pm.
Thursday, April 1, 2010
Monday, March 29, 2010
Last day in Bangkok
Monday 29th March
Incredibly this is the penultimate day of trip. Last night we enquired where the airport express bus stopped, found a likely contender and I waited for half an hour to confirm we had discovered the correct location.
This bus stop is very conveniently situated just a hundred yards from the hotel entrance, but half buried by kerbside stalls and completely unmarked as to which busses stop at it.
Went shopping this morning to the World Centre, the 2nd largest mall in Asia.
Stopped to watch Thai dancers at the Erewan Shrine. As successive supplicants pay money, the gamelan orchestra plays and the blank faced dancers arise and sway in full traditional costume as prayers are said in front of the shrine to Brahma.
It has been a street corner of spirituality since 1956 when the shrine was inaugurated to appease evil spirits which had previously dogged the progress of building the Hyatt Hotel.
Back to the hotel to grab our favourite seats for tomorrows flight via internet check-in, then back shopping.
Returned late afternoon for a swim and a beer. Plan to revisit the restaurant at Siam Square for our final Thai supper.
Incredibly this is the penultimate day of trip. Last night we enquired where the airport express bus stopped, found a likely contender and I waited for half an hour to confirm we had discovered the correct location.
This bus stop is very conveniently situated just a hundred yards from the hotel entrance, but half buried by kerbside stalls and completely unmarked as to which busses stop at it.
Went shopping this morning to the World Centre, the 2nd largest mall in Asia.
Stopped to watch Thai dancers at the Erewan Shrine. As successive supplicants pay money, the gamelan orchestra plays and the blank faced dancers arise and sway in full traditional costume as prayers are said in front of the shrine to Brahma.
It has been a street corner of spirituality since 1956 when the shrine was inaugurated to appease evil spirits which had previously dogged the progress of building the Hyatt Hotel.
Back to the hotel to grab our favourite seats for tomorrows flight via internet check-in, then back shopping.
Returned late afternoon for a swim and a beer. Plan to revisit the restaurant at Siam Square for our final Thai supper.
Sunday, March 28, 2010
Odd Sunday in Bangkok
Sunday 28th March
Odd sort of day. Started out walking from the sky train terminal to the National Museum, but a Thai gentleman said that whole neighbourhood was shut because of the demonstrations, but that the government had put in place a scheme for tourists whereby a tuk tuk would take them around other sites for 40 baht ( 80p).
We hailed a tuk tuk with a driver who spoke good English. He took us to the Big Buddha ( impressively high statue), then the lucky and reclining buddhas. Here we got into conversation with a gentleman who turned out to be military police, but had studied law at Aston University at the same time as we were living nearby in Solihull.He said that he was like a watermelon, because although his uniform was green on the outside, inside his sympathies were with the reds.
After that we had to endure two government export jewellery salesrooms. Interesting to see lapidary and mounting being carried on by hand, but accompanied by pressurised selling techniques. We had to go because otherwise the tuk tuk driver didn't get his government coupons for free petrol!
We drove around the city in the company of happy, flag waving red shirts on motorbikes, trucks and cars. Their leaders had just been invited to live televised talks with the government. There were also a fair number of military at street corners and government establishments keeping an eye on events. There was a sense that politically, things were happening.
Then to Golden Mount for a view over the city from its highest stupa, and back to the sky train terminus. After cooling down in one of the nearby shopping malls, we went back to Chatuchak market for a stroll round. Then returned to the hotel.
Odd sort of day. Started out walking from the sky train terminal to the National Museum, but a Thai gentleman said that whole neighbourhood was shut because of the demonstrations, but that the government had put in place a scheme for tourists whereby a tuk tuk would take them around other sites for 40 baht ( 80p).
We hailed a tuk tuk with a driver who spoke good English. He took us to the Big Buddha ( impressively high statue), then the lucky and reclining buddhas. Here we got into conversation with a gentleman who turned out to be military police, but had studied law at Aston University at the same time as we were living nearby in Solihull.He said that he was like a watermelon, because although his uniform was green on the outside, inside his sympathies were with the reds.
After that we had to endure two government export jewellery salesrooms. Interesting to see lapidary and mounting being carried on by hand, but accompanied by pressurised selling techniques. We had to go because otherwise the tuk tuk driver didn't get his government coupons for free petrol!
We drove around the city in the company of happy, flag waving red shirts on motorbikes, trucks and cars. Their leaders had just been invited to live televised talks with the government. There were also a fair number of military at street corners and government establishments keeping an eye on events. There was a sense that politically, things were happening.
Then to Golden Mount for a view over the city from its highest stupa, and back to the sky train terminus. After cooling down in one of the nearby shopping malls, we went back to Chatuchak market for a stroll round. Then returned to the hotel.
Saturday, March 27, 2010
Saturday in Bangkok
Saturday 27th March
Our opinions of this hotel are improving. Firstly when they swapped our room without demur to escape the renditions of the singer from the restaurant across the road, and secondly at breakfast where the choice was immense due to the multitude of nationalities being catered for. We met a Tanzanian gentleman in the lift. On hearing we came from England he exclaimed "I remember England, I studied at St Thomas' to become a doctor, and now I'm a member of parliament!".
Bought day tickets for the sky train at 120 baht each ( £2.40) and travelled in the comfortable, fast driverless trains to Siam Square to examine the shops, then to Mo Chit to one of the biggest markets in the world. The Bangkok Jatujak weekend market covers 28 acres with over 10,000 stalls, a lot of which we visited! Great fun.
Watched the red shirts' orderly if noisy procession down the road, then tired and with a full day bag we returned to the hotel for the obligatory swim and beer. At the swimming pool, we discovered the hotel also supported an aviary, then found even more function rooms and a fitness centre with rooftop jogging track!
We used our day passes again to go to Siam Square in the evening, and found a good Thai restaurant called Ban Khun Mae which served us an excellent meal.
Our opinions of this hotel are improving. Firstly when they swapped our room without demur to escape the renditions of the singer from the restaurant across the road, and secondly at breakfast where the choice was immense due to the multitude of nationalities being catered for. We met a Tanzanian gentleman in the lift. On hearing we came from England he exclaimed "I remember England, I studied at St Thomas' to become a doctor, and now I'm a member of parliament!".
Bought day tickets for the sky train at 120 baht each ( £2.40) and travelled in the comfortable, fast driverless trains to Siam Square to examine the shops, then to Mo Chit to one of the biggest markets in the world. The Bangkok Jatujak weekend market covers 28 acres with over 10,000 stalls, a lot of which we visited! Great fun.
Watched the red shirts' orderly if noisy procession down the road, then tired and with a full day bag we returned to the hotel for the obligatory swim and beer. At the swimming pool, we discovered the hotel also supported an aviary, then found even more function rooms and a fitness centre with rooftop jogging track!
We used our day passes again to go to Siam Square in the evening, and found a good Thai restaurant called Ban Khun Mae which served us an excellent meal.
Friday, March 26, 2010
Siem Reap to Bangkok
Friday 26th March
Up early for minibus pick-up at 7:30. It was raining steadily, the first real rain we have seen in months, we have been so lucky with the weather this trip. The minibus deposited us in a shack used to store rental pushbikes, where we waited until more backpackers arrived.Eventually a 45 seater coach turned up and everyone scrambled for a seat because it was overbooked. The overspill were crammed into a minibus, leaving just one poor youngster who was sat on a plastic camp chair in the aisle.
We travelled through the rain across more of the seemingly interminable Cambodian plain. There were just a few scrappy towns and settlements in a fairly featureless brown landscape. The road was well made up, although progress was as ever slow as it was only two lane.
At Poipet, the crossing was relatively fast, after the Cambodian control we walked across the border to the Thai side. Our passports were stamped with visas without question. I had planned to take a tuk tuk to the bus station, but the coach operator said he had a minibus leaving immediately for Bangkok at 300 baht each (£6).We decided to accept the offer and were led to a modern gas fuelled minibus.
It was very cramped inside as there were 10 people plus backpacks, and we sat hunched in the back seats as we sped towards Bangkok along roads the Cambodians can only dream about.We had to refuel several times, so although there are many vehicles here using liquefied gas, their range seems very limited and refuelling is much slower than petrol or diesel.
It stopped raining as we approached the centre of Bangkok, where we encountered the Red Shirt demonstrators. They seemed very orderly, camped along the sides or middles of the roads with soup kitchens set up for feeding while listening to speeches blaring out of loudspeakers.
We were dropped somewhere that I couldn't find on my map. Christine found a tuk tuk, agreed a fare of 200 baht (£4) and we hared across the city until we reached Nana sky train station which I knew was on Sukhumvit Road very close to the hotel. The driver couldn't find the hotel though, but eventually asked someone who knew where it was.Christine had recognised the skyscraper that the hotel was in near the station from the website photos, and after turning round we found the Ambassador Hotel entrance up a side street. There are very few street name signs here, so navigation isn't easy.
The Ambassador Hotel was a bit of a let down after the beautiful Cambodian hotel we had just left. It is more like a 1980s office block, impersonal and rather dated, however we had picked it because it has a swimming pool and is very close to the sky train station.
We ventured out on the streets as we hadn't eaten since breakfast. The area is very liveley with street stalls selling fake clothing, watches, computer games and pornography. We ate on a terrace at the nearby Landmark Hotel overlooking the bustling street with the sky trains flashing overhead. The pavements were noticable for the disproportionate numbers of middle aged westerners attached to young Thai girls.It felt cool as the temperature had fallen just below 30 degrees C, but the food was hot and as good as we had remembered it.
Up early for minibus pick-up at 7:30. It was raining steadily, the first real rain we have seen in months, we have been so lucky with the weather this trip. The minibus deposited us in a shack used to store rental pushbikes, where we waited until more backpackers arrived.Eventually a 45 seater coach turned up and everyone scrambled for a seat because it was overbooked. The overspill were crammed into a minibus, leaving just one poor youngster who was sat on a plastic camp chair in the aisle.
We travelled through the rain across more of the seemingly interminable Cambodian plain. There were just a few scrappy towns and settlements in a fairly featureless brown landscape. The road was well made up, although progress was as ever slow as it was only two lane.
At Poipet, the crossing was relatively fast, after the Cambodian control we walked across the border to the Thai side. Our passports were stamped with visas without question. I had planned to take a tuk tuk to the bus station, but the coach operator said he had a minibus leaving immediately for Bangkok at 300 baht each (£6).We decided to accept the offer and were led to a modern gas fuelled minibus.
It was very cramped inside as there were 10 people plus backpacks, and we sat hunched in the back seats as we sped towards Bangkok along roads the Cambodians can only dream about.We had to refuel several times, so although there are many vehicles here using liquefied gas, their range seems very limited and refuelling is much slower than petrol or diesel.
It stopped raining as we approached the centre of Bangkok, where we encountered the Red Shirt demonstrators. They seemed very orderly, camped along the sides or middles of the roads with soup kitchens set up for feeding while listening to speeches blaring out of loudspeakers.
We were dropped somewhere that I couldn't find on my map. Christine found a tuk tuk, agreed a fare of 200 baht (£4) and we hared across the city until we reached Nana sky train station which I knew was on Sukhumvit Road very close to the hotel. The driver couldn't find the hotel though, but eventually asked someone who knew where it was.Christine had recognised the skyscraper that the hotel was in near the station from the website photos, and after turning round we found the Ambassador Hotel entrance up a side street. There are very few street name signs here, so navigation isn't easy.
The Ambassador Hotel was a bit of a let down after the beautiful Cambodian hotel we had just left. It is more like a 1980s office block, impersonal and rather dated, however we had picked it because it has a swimming pool and is very close to the sky train station.
We ventured out on the streets as we hadn't eaten since breakfast. The area is very liveley with street stalls selling fake clothing, watches, computer games and pornography. We ate on a terrace at the nearby Landmark Hotel overlooking the bustling street with the sky trains flashing overhead. The pavements were noticable for the disproportionate numbers of middle aged westerners attached to young Thai girls.It felt cool as the temperature had fallen just below 30 degrees C, but the food was hot and as good as we had remembered it.
Thursday, March 25, 2010
Last day in Siem Reap
Thursday 25th March
Met Chamnan Chhor, our driver for the day, at 8am. He speaks very good English and explained a lot as we drove northwards to Banteay Srei.
This was a jewel of a site, beautifully presented if overrun by Japanese tour groups. We could see many features we had learned in the museum yesterday.
Then onwards to Kbal Spean. This is unusual as it consists of carved boulders and riverbed bedrock carvings some one and a half kilometres up into the forest at the edge of the plain.We measured the temperature as 40 degrees C on the walk to the site.
Tired by the time we got back to the car, Chamnan drove us back to the air conditioned Angkor Cafe back at Angkor Wat where we cooled down with iced drinks, salad and ice cream ( Thanks Em!).
Now we went to complete the Grand Circuit, stopping first at Ta Keo to climb the temple mountain, being led down by a charming 6 year old girl!
Completing the circuit, the twin temples of Thomannon and Chau Say Tevoda, small flat temples but perfectly formed.
Finally, a second and last visit to the unbelievable Bayon Temple with its huge carved heads.
Then back to the hotel for a final swim and beer. Chamnan was a superb companion and very knowlegable.
With some regret, we leave for Bankok tomorrow.
Met Chamnan Chhor, our driver for the day, at 8am. He speaks very good English and explained a lot as we drove northwards to Banteay Srei.
This was a jewel of a site, beautifully presented if overrun by Japanese tour groups. We could see many features we had learned in the museum yesterday.
Then onwards to Kbal Spean. This is unusual as it consists of carved boulders and riverbed bedrock carvings some one and a half kilometres up into the forest at the edge of the plain.We measured the temperature as 40 degrees C on the walk to the site.
Tired by the time we got back to the car, Chamnan drove us back to the air conditioned Angkor Cafe back at Angkor Wat where we cooled down with iced drinks, salad and ice cream ( Thanks Em!).
Now we went to complete the Grand Circuit, stopping first at Ta Keo to climb the temple mountain, being led down by a charming 6 year old girl!
Completing the circuit, the twin temples of Thomannon and Chau Say Tevoda, small flat temples but perfectly formed.
Finally, a second and last visit to the unbelievable Bayon Temple with its huge carved heads.
Then back to the hotel for a final swim and beer. Chamnan was a superb companion and very knowlegable.
With some regret, we leave for Bankok tomorrow.
Wednesday, March 24, 2010
Lazy day
Wednesday 24th March
Lazy day. Got up late and lingered ove breakfast on the terrace by the swimming pool.
Then walked into town to the old market area along by the river. Bought $5 bus tickets to Poipet ( for the Thai border crossing) for Friday.
Also booked a car and driver for tomorrow for $35 to visit outlying temples and complete the grand circuit.
Walked to Angkor Museum. Expensive entry at $8 each and initially looks like money badly spent, but after the first couple of galleries the quality of the displays and information improved and we left after several hours very favourably impressed.
Walked back to hotel for traditional swim and beer, then to nearby open air restaurant called 'Vinoths'. The setting was very stylish, but the food mundane.
Lazy day. Got up late and lingered ove breakfast on the terrace by the swimming pool.
Then walked into town to the old market area along by the river. Bought $5 bus tickets to Poipet ( for the Thai border crossing) for Friday.
Also booked a car and driver for tomorrow for $35 to visit outlying temples and complete the grand circuit.
Walked to Angkor Museum. Expensive entry at $8 each and initially looks like money badly spent, but after the first couple of galleries the quality of the displays and information improved and we left after several hours very favourably impressed.
Walked back to hotel for traditional swim and beer, then to nearby open air restaurant called 'Vinoths'. The setting was very stylish, but the food mundane.
Most of the Grand Circuit
Tuesday 23rd March
Started at 8am with Mr Sayon and his tuk tuk to attempt the grand circuit:
Preah Khan
A large temple on the flat with concentric enclosures where you walk through and the tuk tuk meets you on the other side.
Neak Pean
Completeley different from the rest, this is an arrangement of four large and four smaller lakes with a central sanctuary.
Ta Som
Another temple on the flat, at the far end a huge ficus tree has entwined itself around the giant head above the goppura ( cruciform entrance galleries).
East Mebon
A temple mountain. Steep laterite steps in the blazing sun. The terraces, which have lifesize stone elephants at the corners, contain brick 'spires', hollow and carved with bas reliefs on the outside.The brickwork is incredible. No mortar or regular bond is used. Each brick has been ground down to fit in with the next so there is less than a millimetre gap between them, so although irregular in size and shape, the resulting walls are strong. The three dimensional jigsaw puzzle must have taken as long as the stonework to build.
Stop for lunch in an unhygenic looking rather unappealing restaurant, but a pleasant breezze and overlooking a lake.
Pre Rup
Similar in construction to East Mebon, but with lions guarding the staircases and great view from the top over the plain.
Banteay Kdai
A temple on the flat used as a monastery until recently since being built a thousand years ago. On the flat and with the worst state of stonework yet seen. Walls are collapsing because the stones, though beautifully and painstakingly worked, were set without any thought to lateral bonding.
Ta Prohm
A temple on the flat, but where huge ficus trees have been left with their butress roots interpolated within and entwined around the stonework.
Gave up on the final two temples and returned to the hotel for a beer and a swim. Decided to extend stay here by an extra day, as we now need a rest and time to plan our third temple visit.
In the evening, took a tuk tuk to a gigantic restaurant where a buffet dinner had been prepared for several hundreds of people, followed by apsara and folk dancing accompanied by a gamelan orchestra. Great fun.
Started at 8am with Mr Sayon and his tuk tuk to attempt the grand circuit:
Preah Khan
A large temple on the flat with concentric enclosures where you walk through and the tuk tuk meets you on the other side.
Neak Pean
Completeley different from the rest, this is an arrangement of four large and four smaller lakes with a central sanctuary.
Ta Som
Another temple on the flat, at the far end a huge ficus tree has entwined itself around the giant head above the goppura ( cruciform entrance galleries).
East Mebon
A temple mountain. Steep laterite steps in the blazing sun. The terraces, which have lifesize stone elephants at the corners, contain brick 'spires', hollow and carved with bas reliefs on the outside.The brickwork is incredible. No mortar or regular bond is used. Each brick has been ground down to fit in with the next so there is less than a millimetre gap between them, so although irregular in size and shape, the resulting walls are strong. The three dimensional jigsaw puzzle must have taken as long as the stonework to build.
Stop for lunch in an unhygenic looking rather unappealing restaurant, but a pleasant breezze and overlooking a lake.
Pre Rup
Similar in construction to East Mebon, but with lions guarding the staircases and great view from the top over the plain.
Banteay Kdai
A temple on the flat used as a monastery until recently since being built a thousand years ago. On the flat and with the worst state of stonework yet seen. Walls are collapsing because the stones, though beautifully and painstakingly worked, were set without any thought to lateral bonding.
Ta Prohm
A temple on the flat, but where huge ficus trees have been left with their butress roots interpolated within and entwined around the stonework.
Gave up on the final two temples and returned to the hotel for a beer and a swim. Decided to extend stay here by an extra day, as we now need a rest and time to plan our third temple visit.
In the evening, took a tuk tuk to a gigantic restaurant where a buffet dinner had been prepared for several hundreds of people, followed by apsara and folk dancing accompanied by a gamelan orchestra. Great fun.
Monday, March 22, 2010
Angkor Wat and Angkor Thom
Monday 22nd March
Started early and hired a tuk tuk to take us to Angkor Wat in the morning then on to Angkor Thom in the afternoon.
Angkor wat is on an epic scale and is a masterpiece of symnetrical design. It is also fascinating as like Mayan architecture, it uses the false arch throughout.
This failure to discover the true arch similarly constrains the sizes of the structures, although they are still impressive.The other major feature is the use of bas-reliefs, intricately carved in the fine sandstone, to show Hindu legends around the base but dancing girls (apsaras) inside.
Angkor Thom was a sacred ciity, the most fabulous building of which is the Bayon. This is a magical temple mountain with numerous sandstone 'spires', each carved with four massive enigmatic faces, pointing in the corresponding cardinal directions.The inside is a complex of passageways and courtyards, all arranged in intricate cruciform shapes around the central circular sancturary. This is a mysterious gloomy structure, with a large bat fluttering around inside one of the 'spires'. Again the outsides are covered in bas-reliefs.
Walked to two further temples which were interesting, but not of the same standard as the first two.
Then back to the hotel, hot, tired but happy.
Started early and hired a tuk tuk to take us to Angkor Wat in the morning then on to Angkor Thom in the afternoon.
Angkor wat is on an epic scale and is a masterpiece of symnetrical design. It is also fascinating as like Mayan architecture, it uses the false arch throughout.
This failure to discover the true arch similarly constrains the sizes of the structures, although they are still impressive.The other major feature is the use of bas-reliefs, intricately carved in the fine sandstone, to show Hindu legends around the base but dancing girls (apsaras) inside.
Angkor Thom was a sacred ciity, the most fabulous building of which is the Bayon. This is a magical temple mountain with numerous sandstone 'spires', each carved with four massive enigmatic faces, pointing in the corresponding cardinal directions.The inside is a complex of passageways and courtyards, all arranged in intricate cruciform shapes around the central circular sancturary. This is a mysterious gloomy structure, with a large bat fluttering around inside one of the 'spires'. Again the outsides are covered in bas-reliefs.
Walked to two further temples which were interesting, but not of the same standard as the first two.
Then back to the hotel, hot, tired but happy.
Kep to Siem Reap
Sunday 21st March
After an early breakfast we were taken down to the main road on the backs of motos by the waiter and the gardener, luggage wedged across their knees as they free-wheeled down the dusty hill.The coach to Phnom Penh was on time, air conditioned and comfortable, though the journey took longer than expected.
We arrived at 12:30 to find that there was a bus to Siem Reap leaving at 1.40.This coach was equally good, although we couldn't show the driver where we wanted to get off, because he couldn't read. To make matters worse, because this bus was equally tardy, it was after nightfall when we arrived.
However, luckily it terminated at a transport stop on the right side of town for us, and a tuk tuk driver found the hotel for us.
We had found a good deal on the internet and booked into the four and a half star Borei Angkor Resort. The room is fabulous, all dark hardwood and shiny modern bathroom, plus a balcony. We sunk into chairs beside the pool and listened to the singers whilst supping our evening beer. It had been over twelve hours of travelling though.
After an early breakfast we were taken down to the main road on the backs of motos by the waiter and the gardener, luggage wedged across their knees as they free-wheeled down the dusty hill.The coach to Phnom Penh was on time, air conditioned and comfortable, though the journey took longer than expected.
We arrived at 12:30 to find that there was a bus to Siem Reap leaving at 1.40.This coach was equally good, although we couldn't show the driver where we wanted to get off, because he couldn't read. To make matters worse, because this bus was equally tardy, it was after nightfall when we arrived.
However, luckily it terminated at a transport stop on the right side of town for us, and a tuk tuk driver found the hotel for us.
We had found a good deal on the internet and booked into the four and a half star Borei Angkor Resort. The room is fabulous, all dark hardwood and shiny modern bathroom, plus a balcony. We sunk into chairs beside the pool and listened to the singers whilst supping our evening beer. It had been over twelve hours of travelling though.
Saturday, March 20, 2010
Rabbit Island
Saturday 20th March
Dinner last night was different. As this is a famed area of Cambodia for crabs, we ordered some. The plates that arrived looked like a construction kit for alien lifeforms. They contained spider crabs with long legs and smallish bodies, quartered, partially dismembered and covered in sauce. Luckily crab picks and crackers were provided, but even so it took the best part of two hours to perform the necessary combination of eating and arthropod dissection.
Tasty, but what with the need to wear glasses to examine the morphology of the animal, and the effort of extracting the meat having found where it was hidden, probably more energy was needed to eat the meal than the nutrition obtained.
Today we went to Rabbit Island. A small island about 40 minutes by wooden clinker built open boat from the mainland. We landed on a palm fringed sandy beach with bamboo platforms to rest on set under the trees, then cafe and restaurant shacks set further back, and finally a line of palm thatched bungalows before the jungle started.
The temperature must have been in the mid 30s, the sea was wonderfully warm, although a bit turbid for snorkelling. However we saw a few small fish, crabs and coral growing on boulders. The downside was cidarid echinoids, about the size of apples, which in places were spaced less than a metre apart in places and were covered in fine but very sharp spines. Quite a lot of people ended up with punctured feet. It seems there is always a problem in paradise.
We have decided to take the early bus to Phnom Penh tomorrow, in an effort to try and reach Siem Reap the same day.
Dinner last night was different. As this is a famed area of Cambodia for crabs, we ordered some. The plates that arrived looked like a construction kit for alien lifeforms. They contained spider crabs with long legs and smallish bodies, quartered, partially dismembered and covered in sauce. Luckily crab picks and crackers were provided, but even so it took the best part of two hours to perform the necessary combination of eating and arthropod dissection.
Tasty, but what with the need to wear glasses to examine the morphology of the animal, and the effort of extracting the meat having found where it was hidden, probably more energy was needed to eat the meal than the nutrition obtained.
Today we went to Rabbit Island. A small island about 40 minutes by wooden clinker built open boat from the mainland. We landed on a palm fringed sandy beach with bamboo platforms to rest on set under the trees, then cafe and restaurant shacks set further back, and finally a line of palm thatched bungalows before the jungle started.
The temperature must have been in the mid 30s, the sea was wonderfully warm, although a bit turbid for snorkelling. However we saw a few small fish, crabs and coral growing on boulders. The downside was cidarid echinoids, about the size of apples, which in places were spaced less than a metre apart in places and were covered in fine but very sharp spines. Quite a lot of people ended up with punctured feet. It seems there is always a problem in paradise.
We have decided to take the early bus to Phnom Penh tomorrow, in an effort to try and reach Siem Reap the same day.
Friday, March 19, 2010
Around Kep by Moto
Friday 19th March
How many cambodians does it take to put a statue of Buddha on a plinth, answer is 9. All pushing and pulling and levering with great planks of harwood and much discussion. Despite several precarious moments, Nirvana was re-attained.
Hired a moto ( closer to a motorbike than a scooter this time as it had manual gears although mercifully an automatic clutch) and set off along an unmade-up track climbing to 120m above sea level into kep National Park.
Saw no other traffic at all which was good as we were skittering around on the loose surface, but where look-outs had been cleared the view over the sea was superb. Eventually circumnavigated the park, then started a second circuit to try and find a waterfall we had missed the first time.
Parked the moto and walked to the location, but it was completely dry. Then turned seaward and found a western style restaurant called 'Breezes' right on the seafront where we ate a light lunch. My tummy had been playing up the last few days and it was the first time my appetite had returned for over a day.
Then we got completely lost. With all the twists and turns in the hills, we had become disorientated as we looped the park, and accidentally set off towards the Vienamese border! Luckily we came across a road sign with English names and realised we had to turn around and retrace our route.
Back in Kep at last we stopped for a drink at the crab market ( without realising where we were) then completed our tour, purchasing supplies of water and beer en-route. didn't fall off or hit anything and we now have a good understanding of the local geography.
The place is somewhat eery because of the number of old French villa plots where mostly only the boundary walls remain. The villas themselves have mostly been raised to the ground, except for a few remnant burnt out shells, by the actions of the Kmer Rouge. Then squatters moved onto the land, and ownership descended into a legal quagmire.
How many cambodians does it take to put a statue of Buddha on a plinth, answer is 9. All pushing and pulling and levering with great planks of harwood and much discussion. Despite several precarious moments, Nirvana was re-attained.
Hired a moto ( closer to a motorbike than a scooter this time as it had manual gears although mercifully an automatic clutch) and set off along an unmade-up track climbing to 120m above sea level into kep National Park.
Saw no other traffic at all which was good as we were skittering around on the loose surface, but where look-outs had been cleared the view over the sea was superb. Eventually circumnavigated the park, then started a second circuit to try and find a waterfall we had missed the first time.
Parked the moto and walked to the location, but it was completely dry. Then turned seaward and found a western style restaurant called 'Breezes' right on the seafront where we ate a light lunch. My tummy had been playing up the last few days and it was the first time my appetite had returned for over a day.
Then we got completely lost. With all the twists and turns in the hills, we had become disorientated as we looped the park, and accidentally set off towards the Vienamese border! Luckily we came across a road sign with English names and realised we had to turn around and retrace our route.
Back in Kep at last we stopped for a drink at the crab market ( without realising where we were) then completed our tour, purchasing supplies of water and beer en-route. didn't fall off or hit anything and we now have a good understanding of the local geography.
The place is somewhat eery because of the number of old French villa plots where mostly only the boundary walls remain. The villas themselves have mostly been raised to the ground, except for a few remnant burnt out shells, by the actions of the Kmer Rouge. Then squatters moved onto the land, and ownership descended into a legal quagmire.
Sihanoukville to Kep
Thursday 18th March
Went for swim in sea before breakfast, but wind direction had changed and there were large waves with a strong current so we didn't venture far.
Hired the hotel minivan to take us to the transport stop for Kampot traffic. The driver found a minibus leaving at 11am and we put our bags on board and wandered around town for an hour.
This just confirmed our first impressions that although a lot of development is going on, Sihanoukville is not really a place where you would want to stay yet.
Back at the minibus, when we mentioned we were going on to Kep, a heated discussion broke out between a taxi driver who wanted to take us all the way for 25$, and the minibus driver who said ( through an interpreter) that he would match the figure.
So we roared off in the minibus along good roads to Kampot. There weren't many passengers so even though there was no air conditioning and the temperature was about 33C, it was still a pleasant trip.
At Kanpot all the rest of the passengers got off, and we tried to explain to the driver and his mates where the guesthous was. This was a bit tricky as he couldn't read a map ( or I suspect any form of writing), and any way the road we wanted didn't have a name.
However the driver resourcefully called an English speaking friend on his mobile, and I explained we wanted to go 'close' to the Verandah resort. The friend luckily knew where this was and off we went, this time along a single track but metalled road.
We found the road easily, and as we stopped on the unmade-up track Christine spotted a sign to 'Au Bout du Monde' 150m further up. Smiles all round. The driver was pleased to have found the correct address, and his mate carried our bag up the steep path to reception.
We are staying in 'Holy' bungalow ( that isn't a mistake, that is how it is written), on the side of a steep hill range overlooking the sea about a kilometre away. The bungalow is constructed from sticks with rattan matting walls. The bedroom is just above ground, but the living area which is a large verandah, as the ground slopes down, is supported on posts increasing up to ten feet tall.
it is a little like being in the tree house, as you can look down to the ground between the split staves of the floor. However it has an en-suite and a mosquito net, so we are far from slumming it.
Life became more difficult as night fell as there was no electricity. The supply in these parts is somewhat erratic, and we were fearing that dinner might not be possible.
Confidence was not increased as the sites generator spluttered into action then died every time the load was connected. However finally the mains supply arrived, as did Christine's dinner a mere hour and a half after she had ordered it.
Went for swim in sea before breakfast, but wind direction had changed and there were large waves with a strong current so we didn't venture far.
Hired the hotel minivan to take us to the transport stop for Kampot traffic. The driver found a minibus leaving at 11am and we put our bags on board and wandered around town for an hour.
This just confirmed our first impressions that although a lot of development is going on, Sihanoukville is not really a place where you would want to stay yet.
Back at the minibus, when we mentioned we were going on to Kep, a heated discussion broke out between a taxi driver who wanted to take us all the way for 25$, and the minibus driver who said ( through an interpreter) that he would match the figure.
So we roared off in the minibus along good roads to Kampot. There weren't many passengers so even though there was no air conditioning and the temperature was about 33C, it was still a pleasant trip.
At Kanpot all the rest of the passengers got off, and we tried to explain to the driver and his mates where the guesthous was. This was a bit tricky as he couldn't read a map ( or I suspect any form of writing), and any way the road we wanted didn't have a name.
However the driver resourcefully called an English speaking friend on his mobile, and I explained we wanted to go 'close' to the Verandah resort. The friend luckily knew where this was and off we went, this time along a single track but metalled road.
We found the road easily, and as we stopped on the unmade-up track Christine spotted a sign to 'Au Bout du Monde' 150m further up. Smiles all round. The driver was pleased to have found the correct address, and his mate carried our bag up the steep path to reception.
We are staying in 'Holy' bungalow ( that isn't a mistake, that is how it is written), on the side of a steep hill range overlooking the sea about a kilometre away. The bungalow is constructed from sticks with rattan matting walls. The bedroom is just above ground, but the living area which is a large verandah, as the ground slopes down, is supported on posts increasing up to ten feet tall.
it is a little like being in the tree house, as you can look down to the ground between the split staves of the floor. However it has an en-suite and a mosquito net, so we are far from slumming it.
Life became more difficult as night fell as there was no electricity. The supply in these parts is somewhat erratic, and we were fearing that dinner might not be possible.
Confidence was not increased as the sites generator spluttered into action then died every time the load was connected. However finally the mains supply arrived, as did Christine's dinner a mere hour and a half after she had ordered it.
Last day at Independence Hotel, Sihanoukville
Wednesday 17th March
Happy 30th Birthday Em! After swimming and sunbathing, we managed to get through to Em on the phone at the hotel reception for a couple of minutes, just long enough to say 'Happy Birthday'.
Then back to the beach and we took the snorkels to the far side of the bay where we found myriads of small fish swimming around coral encrusted laterite boulders.
Finally a farewell Angkor beer at the Sunset Bar by the beach, we leave for Kep tomorrow, although so far don't know how we will travel the 75km or so.
Recipe for Khmer Beef Lock Lack ( guesswork!)
Fry small pieces of beef with sprigs of fresh Kampot peppers.
Remove beef, add sun dried tomato paste, sliced garlic and beef bone stock and reduce.
When sauce is consistency of thick gravy, return beef and serve with steamed rice, accompanied by sliced onion and tomato.
Happy 30th Birthday Em! After swimming and sunbathing, we managed to get through to Em on the phone at the hotel reception for a couple of minutes, just long enough to say 'Happy Birthday'.
Then back to the beach and we took the snorkels to the far side of the bay where we found myriads of small fish swimming around coral encrusted laterite boulders.
Finally a farewell Angkor beer at the Sunset Bar by the beach, we leave for Kep tomorrow, although so far don't know how we will travel the 75km or so.
Recipe for Khmer Beef Lock Lack ( guesswork!)
Fry small pieces of beef with sprigs of fresh Kampot peppers.
Remove beef, add sun dried tomato paste, sliced garlic and beef bone stock and reduce.
When sauce is consistency of thick gravy, return beef and serve with steamed rice, accompanied by sliced onion and tomato.
At the Independence Hotel Sihanoukville
Tuesday 16th March
Got up an had a swim in the almost flat calm warm sea before breakfast. Then back down to the sea for an energetic four hours of sunbathing, snorkelling and swimming.
After a siesta, we returned to the beach and walked along the sand around the bay. Interesting in that in addition to hard pan laterite deposits, we found an outcrop of 'coffee rock' similar to what we had seen on Frazer Island last year.
A beer in the appropriately named Sunset Bar at the water's edge, then later cocktails and dinner.
It's usually a busy life being a tourist, but this is a relaxing interlude.
Recipe for Kompong Som Sunrise Cocktail
Campari - quite a lot
Fresh pineapple juice
Cherry brandy
Tequila
Got up an had a swim in the almost flat calm warm sea before breakfast. Then back down to the sea for an energetic four hours of sunbathing, snorkelling and swimming.
After a siesta, we returned to the beach and walked along the sand around the bay. Interesting in that in addition to hard pan laterite deposits, we found an outcrop of 'coffee rock' similar to what we had seen on Frazer Island last year.
A beer in the appropriately named Sunset Bar at the water's edge, then later cocktails and dinner.
It's usually a busy life being a tourist, but this is a relaxing interlude.
Recipe for Kompong Som Sunrise Cocktail
Campari - quite a lot
Fresh pineapple juice
Cherry brandy
Tequila
Phnom Penh to Sihanoukville
Monday 15th March
Minibus arrived half an hour early to collect us, causing a very rushed breakfast. We were taken to an express coach parked by the night market. The coach was very comfortable with air conditioning and on-board wc.
There were only a few other passengers so we sat high up at the front with a wonderful view as we cruised along, sometimes attaining a speed of 30 mph. It wasn't that the roads were bad, they were well metalled with wide laterite verges, it was just that when everything has to travel on a two lane road; tractors, lorries, tuk tuks, coaches, cows, motorbikes and bicycles, there are inevitable delays.
Add to this the absence of any discernable traffic rules except that you are supposed to drive on the right, unless you are overtaking, turning, or don't happen to feel like it at the time, and life gets very slow.
However this lack of speed was lucky for one calf who trying to join its mother, bolted across the road into the path of the coach. Despite a large bang as the two collided, neither the calf nor the coach was seriously hurt.
We reached Sihanoukville at 1:30pm and haggled with taxi drivers to take us to the Independence Hotel. This is 5km from town, which judging from the look of the town is a good thing.
The hotel is a 1960s building, the sole occupant of a promontory overlooking a private beach where we spent the afternoon, and a bar/restaurant a few feet from the gently lapping waves where we spent the evening.
Minibus arrived half an hour early to collect us, causing a very rushed breakfast. We were taken to an express coach parked by the night market. The coach was very comfortable with air conditioning and on-board wc.
There were only a few other passengers so we sat high up at the front with a wonderful view as we cruised along, sometimes attaining a speed of 30 mph. It wasn't that the roads were bad, they were well metalled with wide laterite verges, it was just that when everything has to travel on a two lane road; tractors, lorries, tuk tuks, coaches, cows, motorbikes and bicycles, there are inevitable delays.
Add to this the absence of any discernable traffic rules except that you are supposed to drive on the right, unless you are overtaking, turning, or don't happen to feel like it at the time, and life gets very slow.
However this lack of speed was lucky for one calf who trying to join its mother, bolted across the road into the path of the coach. Despite a large bang as the two collided, neither the calf nor the coach was seriously hurt.
We reached Sihanoukville at 1:30pm and haggled with taxi drivers to take us to the Independence Hotel. This is 5km from town, which judging from the look of the town is a good thing.
The hotel is a 1960s building, the sole occupant of a promontory overlooking a private beach where we spent the afternoon, and a bar/restaurant a few feet from the gently lapping waves where we spent the evening.
Sunday, March 14, 2010
Sunday in Phnom Penh
Sunday 14th March
After a very good breakfast at our hotel, the Bougainvillier on the riverfront, we walked half a kilometre to the Royal Palace which is a delight. Although mostly of modern construction, it has been faithful to tradition and especially the soaring roofs of ochre coloured tiles edged with red and green are really graceful.
Then wandered around the Silver Pagoda, so named because the floor is covered with engraved silver panels, and a motley collection of royal paraphanalia mostly to do with coronation pageantry and elephants. Amongst the ceremonial objects solemnly carried by royal retainers on such occasions are a melon and a multi-coloured cat!
Back to the hotel to cool down, it's about 35C at the moment, then off to the Wat Penh, where the city started. It's a hillock with a shrine on top and a popular spot for the locals to congregate, together with a troupe of unconcerned monkeys and an old elephant ( see later).
Up an old French boulevard to discover the Raffles hotel here is just a modern block with a nod to Cambodian design. Down to the market where the French art deco hall has been restored although half submerged in a litter of external stalls, but bought some shoes.
Another rest at the hotel, then off again in the other direction, passing the Vietnamese friendship monument set in a spacious park, and up another wide boulevard to the rather stark independence monument.
After a couple of beers, retraced our steps back to the waterfront at nightfall. As we approached, we saw the old elephant nonchalently traversing a traffic roundabout, leading his mahout through the masses of cars and motorbikes.
Then watched some amazing exponents of kick-shuttlecock, a popular game in these parts, and many impromptu synchronised dance groups dancing on the promenade in sequence to popular local melodies.
Passed the spectacularly illuminated royal palace, pure Disney, and returned to the same restaurant for dinner.
We like this city, it may have begging women carrying hydrocephalous babies, war cripples and street children selling books, but it has style and purpose about it and there are signs everywhere of investment and progress.
P.S. Also unlike most of Vietnam, horn hooting is not obligatory and it doesn't smell of drains.
After a very good breakfast at our hotel, the Bougainvillier on the riverfront, we walked half a kilometre to the Royal Palace which is a delight. Although mostly of modern construction, it has been faithful to tradition and especially the soaring roofs of ochre coloured tiles edged with red and green are really graceful.
Then wandered around the Silver Pagoda, so named because the floor is covered with engraved silver panels, and a motley collection of royal paraphanalia mostly to do with coronation pageantry and elephants. Amongst the ceremonial objects solemnly carried by royal retainers on such occasions are a melon and a multi-coloured cat!
Back to the hotel to cool down, it's about 35C at the moment, then off to the Wat Penh, where the city started. It's a hillock with a shrine on top and a popular spot for the locals to congregate, together with a troupe of unconcerned monkeys and an old elephant ( see later).
Up an old French boulevard to discover the Raffles hotel here is just a modern block with a nod to Cambodian design. Down to the market where the French art deco hall has been restored although half submerged in a litter of external stalls, but bought some shoes.
Another rest at the hotel, then off again in the other direction, passing the Vietnamese friendship monument set in a spacious park, and up another wide boulevard to the rather stark independence monument.
After a couple of beers, retraced our steps back to the waterfront at nightfall. As we approached, we saw the old elephant nonchalently traversing a traffic roundabout, leading his mahout through the masses of cars and motorbikes.
Then watched some amazing exponents of kick-shuttlecock, a popular game in these parts, and many impromptu synchronised dance groups dancing on the promenade in sequence to popular local melodies.
Passed the spectacularly illuminated royal palace, pure Disney, and returned to the same restaurant for dinner.
We like this city, it may have begging women carrying hydrocephalous babies, war cripples and street children selling books, but it has style and purpose about it and there are signs everywhere of investment and progress.
P.S. Also unlike most of Vietnam, horn hooting is not obligatory and it doesn't smell of drains.
Saturday, March 13, 2010
Chau Doc to Phnom Penh - into Cambodia
Saturday 13th March
Up early to catch small riverboat to Cham minority floating village, but we only had time to feed tilapia at a floating fish farm before the fast boat arrived.
This was a dilapidated but powerful fibreglass elongated cabin cruiser with comfortable coach seats, open at the front and back, which roared along at about 40mph over the almost mirror smooth surface of the river.
As we went further upstream, the river widened until it must have been a mile across.
We stopped at the Vietnamese customs point to pay $23 uS each for a Cambodian visa and waited for what seemed to take an hour for our papers to be stamped.
Then 500m or so later we had to stop again, this time at the Cambodian customs point to get our passports stamped. Again the process took the best part of an hour.
Finally the captain replaced the Vietnamese flag with a cambodian one and we were roaring off again.
We reached Phnom Penh about one o'clock after a noisy but comfortably smooth journey. Apart from a few fishing boats, there was little river traffic.
Disembarking, we were beset by tuk tuk drivers who insisted the hotel was 2km away and that we couldn't possibly walk to it. After a lot of argument and despite their most cogent persuasions, we stuck to our guns and put our best foot forward. Surprisingly, ( but to our relief as it was very hot) the hotel appeared after only a 400m walk down the road.
The afternoon was spent in the relative cool and calm of the National Museum, mostly marvelling at the statuary which the French had removed from Angkor.
In the evening, we walked to the lively night market where Cambodian teenagers seemed to be having a great time.
This city is the nicest capital we have visited so far, as laid back as Ventiane, but with wider streets and far less traffic.
Then back down the riverfront by the spectacularly illuminated royal palace to a nearby restaurant where I ate the best meal of the holiday thus far, fish steamed with herbs in a banana leaf parcel.
Up early to catch small riverboat to Cham minority floating village, but we only had time to feed tilapia at a floating fish farm before the fast boat arrived.
This was a dilapidated but powerful fibreglass elongated cabin cruiser with comfortable coach seats, open at the front and back, which roared along at about 40mph over the almost mirror smooth surface of the river.
As we went further upstream, the river widened until it must have been a mile across.
We stopped at the Vietnamese customs point to pay $23 uS each for a Cambodian visa and waited for what seemed to take an hour for our papers to be stamped.
Then 500m or so later we had to stop again, this time at the Cambodian customs point to get our passports stamped. Again the process took the best part of an hour.
Finally the captain replaced the Vietnamese flag with a cambodian one and we were roaring off again.
We reached Phnom Penh about one o'clock after a noisy but comfortably smooth journey. Apart from a few fishing boats, there was little river traffic.
Disembarking, we were beset by tuk tuk drivers who insisted the hotel was 2km away and that we couldn't possibly walk to it. After a lot of argument and despite their most cogent persuasions, we stuck to our guns and put our best foot forward. Surprisingly, ( but to our relief as it was very hot) the hotel appeared after only a 400m walk down the road.
The afternoon was spent in the relative cool and calm of the National Museum, mostly marvelling at the statuary which the French had removed from Angkor.
In the evening, we walked to the lively night market where Cambodian teenagers seemed to be having a great time.
This city is the nicest capital we have visited so far, as laid back as Ventiane, but with wider streets and far less traffic.
Then back down the riverfront by the spectacularly illuminated royal palace to a nearby restaurant where I ate the best meal of the holiday thus far, fish steamed with herbs in a banana leaf parcel.
The Mekong Delta - Chau Doc
Friday 12th March
5:30 start so we could see the local village. Walked to the market which meant crossing the river in a little boat rowed by a local lady. The boat is so narrow you must walk along it one foot in front of the other to avoid rocking the boat. Then back to see the local school, where the cute young pupils arrived and did their excercises before their teacher got there.
Mr hung then took us to the floating market in his boat, where we rejoined the rest of the group on a larger river ship. It was a huge market with different boats piled high with agricultural produce.
Up a tributary to view rice noodle production. We saw the large flat rice paper being steamed and laid out on bamboo racks to sun dry. Apparently they then cut it into noodles in the afternoon, making 2 tons a day, all by hand.
Downstream to a fruit farm where mangoes and pineapples were grown, also with a replica bamboo 'monkey bridge' which used to be used to cross local waterways.
Back to hotel and lunch at waterfront, then coach to crocodile farm, about two hours away.
Then on by coach to Sam mountain. A pagoda on this granite outcrop with fine onionskin weathering had fabulous views across the flatlying countryside into Cambodia.
Coach to Chau Doc, and a seafood dinner on a floating restaurant on the Bassac river, the southernmost distributary of the Mekong.
5:30 start so we could see the local village. Walked to the market which meant crossing the river in a little boat rowed by a local lady. The boat is so narrow you must walk along it one foot in front of the other to avoid rocking the boat. Then back to see the local school, where the cute young pupils arrived and did their excercises before their teacher got there.
Mr hung then took us to the floating market in his boat, where we rejoined the rest of the group on a larger river ship. It was a huge market with different boats piled high with agricultural produce.
Up a tributary to view rice noodle production. We saw the large flat rice paper being steamed and laid out on bamboo racks to sun dry. Apparently they then cut it into noodles in the afternoon, making 2 tons a day, all by hand.
Downstream to a fruit farm where mangoes and pineapples were grown, also with a replica bamboo 'monkey bridge' which used to be used to cross local waterways.
Back to hotel and lunch at waterfront, then coach to crocodile farm, about two hours away.
Then on by coach to Sam mountain. A pagoda on this granite outcrop with fine onionskin weathering had fabulous views across the flatlying countryside into Cambodia.
Coach to Chau Doc, and a seafood dinner on a floating restaurant on the Bassac river, the southernmost distributary of the Mekong.
Mekong Delta - Can Tho
Thursday March 11th
Picked up from hotel by coach and driven to northern distributary of Mekong. Took small boat touring through palm lined waterways, ending up at lunch on an island. Then went to see coconut candy being manufactured by hand. Then onwards by punt like boat propelled by conical hatted lady.
Back at the bus, we journeyed southwards to the southern branch of the Mekong, the Bassac river. As we approached it however, we got caught up in a 2 km traffic jam for the ferry, because the new bridge didn't open until the end of the month. We abandoned the coach and walked to the ferry terminus, hemmed in by hundreds of motorcycles.
Crossed the river on the car ferry after nightfall to Can Tho, the coach eventually reappeared but panic when luggage not unloaded. Turned out that there was too much for the main lockers and an ancilliary locker was used, which is where the missing bag was eventually discovered.
We were driven to the hotel, but because we were doing a homestay, were whisked off in a taxi to a riverbank on the outskirts of town. Here we were met by Mr Hung in his boat.
We cruised down the river in the dark, with fireflies winking in the riverbank trees, until we reached his home where he had built a series of woven palm bungalows at the riverside.
After a dinner of steamed elephant fish and vegetables which we were shown how to roll in rice paper and dip in sauce, and several beers, we went to bed.
Bed was in a bungalow with mosquito net ( probably not needed), a motorbike track on one side and the river on the other. Every couple of hours, either a motorbike or a diesel powered boat clattered past, so sleep was intermittant.
Picked up from hotel by coach and driven to northern distributary of Mekong. Took small boat touring through palm lined waterways, ending up at lunch on an island. Then went to see coconut candy being manufactured by hand. Then onwards by punt like boat propelled by conical hatted lady.
Back at the bus, we journeyed southwards to the southern branch of the Mekong, the Bassac river. As we approached it however, we got caught up in a 2 km traffic jam for the ferry, because the new bridge didn't open until the end of the month. We abandoned the coach and walked to the ferry terminus, hemmed in by hundreds of motorcycles.
Crossed the river on the car ferry after nightfall to Can Tho, the coach eventually reappeared but panic when luggage not unloaded. Turned out that there was too much for the main lockers and an ancilliary locker was used, which is where the missing bag was eventually discovered.
We were driven to the hotel, but because we were doing a homestay, were whisked off in a taxi to a riverbank on the outskirts of town. Here we were met by Mr Hung in his boat.
We cruised down the river in the dark, with fireflies winking in the riverbank trees, until we reached his home where he had built a series of woven palm bungalows at the riverside.
After a dinner of steamed elephant fish and vegetables which we were shown how to roll in rice paper and dip in sauce, and several beers, we went to bed.
Bed was in a bungalow with mosquito net ( probably not needed), a motorbike track on one side and the river on the other. Every couple of hours, either a motorbike or a diesel powered boat clattered past, so sleep was intermittant.
Wednesday, March 10, 2010
Last day in Saigon
Wednesday March 10th
Walked to Botanic gardens, which had a zoo in them. Orang utang's are clever enough to refuse cigarettes from passing Vietnamese. The old French gardens had matured with enormous trees shading the walks. Our favourite animals were the twin wattled cassowary and the giant hornbill.
Then into a suave cafe at the base of the oil company tower next door to cool off, and back into the gardens to visit the History Museum. Beautiful french colonial building filled with Vietnamese artifacts thoughtfully presented in chronological order.
If the Americans had ever given credibility to the history of these people they would have realised that a thousand years tradition of repelling invaders was unlikely to be overturned.
Walked to the Jade Emperor Pagoda and found it eventually, an interesting Buddhist/Taoist temple having more in common with a fairground ghost house than a religious establishment.
Tired, so took taxi back to hotel, then another one to the old Majestic Hotel on the riverside where we supped our ritual beers in the rooftop bar as the light faded over the busy riverscape beneath.
Walked to Botanic gardens, which had a zoo in them. Orang utang's are clever enough to refuse cigarettes from passing Vietnamese. The old French gardens had matured with enormous trees shading the walks. Our favourite animals were the twin wattled cassowary and the giant hornbill.
Then into a suave cafe at the base of the oil company tower next door to cool off, and back into the gardens to visit the History Museum. Beautiful french colonial building filled with Vietnamese artifacts thoughtfully presented in chronological order.
If the Americans had ever given credibility to the history of these people they would have realised that a thousand years tradition of repelling invaders was unlikely to be overturned.
Walked to the Jade Emperor Pagoda and found it eventually, an interesting Buddhist/Taoist temple having more in common with a fairground ghost house than a religious establishment.
Tired, so took taxi back to hotel, then another one to the old Majestic Hotel on the riverside where we supped our ritual beers in the rooftop bar as the light faded over the busy riverscape beneath.
Tuesday, March 9, 2010
Saigon
Tuesday March 9th
Walked following guidebook walking tour, including wonderful old French colonial fine arts museum, then stopping at recommended ice cream parlour ( X cafe - thanks for the ice cream money Em!).
Continued to Reunification Palace, a triumph of 1960s modernist architecture with both the scale and elegance to produce a building admirably fit for purpose. We were guided round by a charming Vietnamese patriot who spoke good English and thoroughly enjoyed it.
Walked by the cathedral to the old French colonial post office. As impressive as a railway terminus and similar in design and size. Then back to a French deli we had passed for cake - essential fuel for tourism second only to beer.
We have booked a three day trip through the Mekong delta to Phnom Penh in Cambodia and decided to finish the walking tour tomorrow.
Walked following guidebook walking tour, including wonderful old French colonial fine arts museum, then stopping at recommended ice cream parlour ( X cafe - thanks for the ice cream money Em!).
Continued to Reunification Palace, a triumph of 1960s modernist architecture with both the scale and elegance to produce a building admirably fit for purpose. We were guided round by a charming Vietnamese patriot who spoke good English and thoroughly enjoyed it.
Walked by the cathedral to the old French colonial post office. As impressive as a railway terminus and similar in design and size. Then back to a French deli we had passed for cake - essential fuel for tourism second only to beer.
We have booked a three day trip through the Mekong delta to Phnom Penh in Cambodia and decided to finish the walking tour tomorrow.
Monday, March 8, 2010
Hoi An to Ho Chi Minh City
Monday March 8th
Hotel minibus took us to Danang airport where we boarded a Jetstar flight to Ho Chi Minh City. The weather was overcast for the first time in ages, but still 33 - 34C.
At the airport, we commandeered a cab from one of the two firms the Saigon hotel had said were ok, handed the driver the instructions in Vietnamese which the hotel had emailed and I had done my best to copy, sat back and enjoyed the ride which was as entertaining as any in a theme park with apparently kamikase motorcyclists, cars and pedestrians all seemingly vying for the same patch of tarmac.
The Saigon MiniHotel 1 is well situated, up a quiet alley, modern, clean, compact and well appointed, and I'm sure we will be comfortable here for a few nights.
Walked to the Saigon River waterfront, watched gaudily illuminated restaurant cruise ships coming in to berth, then managed to retrace our steps to the hotel despite nightfall.
Hotel minibus took us to Danang airport where we boarded a Jetstar flight to Ho Chi Minh City. The weather was overcast for the first time in ages, but still 33 - 34C.
At the airport, we commandeered a cab from one of the two firms the Saigon hotel had said were ok, handed the driver the instructions in Vietnamese which the hotel had emailed and I had done my best to copy, sat back and enjoyed the ride which was as entertaining as any in a theme park with apparently kamikase motorcyclists, cars and pedestrians all seemingly vying for the same patch of tarmac.
The Saigon MiniHotel 1 is well situated, up a quiet alley, modern, clean, compact and well appointed, and I'm sure we will be comfortable here for a few nights.
Walked to the Saigon River waterfront, watched gaudily illuminated restaurant cruise ships coming in to berth, then managed to retrace our steps to the hotel despite nightfall.
Saturday, March 6, 2010
Somewhat better
Sunday March 7th
After a very disturbed night, Christine decided to risk squandering almost all of our now depleted immodium stock and heading into Hoi An with the hope of replenishing it. Luckily this tactic worked, and we were also able to spend the morning looking around the old town, returning in the afternoon with ample ( I hope) new supplies of a similar generic medicine.
After a very disturbed night, Christine decided to risk squandering almost all of our now depleted immodium stock and heading into Hoi An with the hope of replenishing it. Luckily this tactic worked, and we were also able to spend the morning looking around the old town, returning in the afternoon with ample ( I hope) new supplies of a similar generic medicine.
Pig sick
Saturday March 6th
Enforced inactivity as Christine still unwell. Her temperature has reduced to normal, but unfortunately not as yet her digestive system. However we spent most of the day on the beach, sunbathing, swimming, watching fishing boats and observing the difficulties of kite boarding.
Enforced inactivity as Christine still unwell. Her temperature has reduced to normal, but unfortunately not as yet her digestive system. However we spent most of the day on the beach, sunbathing, swimming, watching fishing boats and observing the difficulties of kite boarding.
Thursday, March 4, 2010
Hue to Hoi An
Friday March 5th
Lazed on beach in morning, but Christine complaining of stomach cramps and running a temperature. She has taken to bed until she feels better. Luckily we don't need to move for another three days.
Thursday March 4th
Panic as all other hotel guests were picked up and we were the only ones left, but a minibus eventually turned up half an hour late. As soon as we had boarded, two stern faced policemen swooped on the driver and we waited a further quarter of an hour as lengthy paper forms were meticulously completed and signed for some unknown infraction he had committed.
Rather going to than the bus station as we had expected, the rather fed up driver turned into a side street where a big coach was parked. When we boarded, to our surprise there were no seats inside. Instead the interior was arranged for sleeping, and we travelled quite comfortably though lounging on day beds which felt strange.
We drove southwards through increasingly mountainous scenery until passing through a long tunnel, the road descended to the sea before Da Nang.
From here the coastal road followed a 35km long beach which is being developed as holiday residences and resorts.
Reached Hoi An at lunchtime and took taxi to 'Sea and Sand Hotel' at Cua Dai, a beach village 5km from Hoi An itself. The hotel is comfortable with spacious rooms, only 50m from the white palm fringed beach, and has a free minibus transit service to the town running several times a day.
Walked for miles on beach, pausing to watch fishermen walking in the sea with nets on poles and being completely submerged as the crests of waves passed over them. Not many people about but quite a southerly breeze blowing.
Lazed on beach in morning, but Christine complaining of stomach cramps and running a temperature. She has taken to bed until she feels better. Luckily we don't need to move for another three days.
Thursday March 4th
Panic as all other hotel guests were picked up and we were the only ones left, but a minibus eventually turned up half an hour late. As soon as we had boarded, two stern faced policemen swooped on the driver and we waited a further quarter of an hour as lengthy paper forms were meticulously completed and signed for some unknown infraction he had committed.
Rather going to than the bus station as we had expected, the rather fed up driver turned into a side street where a big coach was parked. When we boarded, to our surprise there were no seats inside. Instead the interior was arranged for sleeping, and we travelled quite comfortably though lounging on day beds which felt strange.
We drove southwards through increasingly mountainous scenery until passing through a long tunnel, the road descended to the sea before Da Nang.
From here the coastal road followed a 35km long beach which is being developed as holiday residences and resorts.
Reached Hoi An at lunchtime and took taxi to 'Sea and Sand Hotel' at Cua Dai, a beach village 5km from Hoi An itself. The hotel is comfortable with spacious rooms, only 50m from the white palm fringed beach, and has a free minibus transit service to the town running several times a day.
Walked for miles on beach, pausing to watch fishermen walking in the sea with nets on poles and being completely submerged as the crests of waves passed over them. Not many people about but quite a southerly breeze blowing.
Wednesday, March 3, 2010
Up the Perfumed River
Wednesday March 3rd
Guide met us at hotel at 08:00 and walked to dragon boat on river. Sailed up Perfumed River to Thien Mu pagoda, a very pretty spot. On the way stopped to watch martial arts display. Amazing how often someone with just a bamboo stick can defeat another armed with two swords. This metaphor set the tone of the day as the guide, who was very knowledgeable and had good English, described most historical events in terms of the superiority of communism over feudalism and by analogy imperialism and capitalism. Weather very hot, about 37 or 38C and quite humid. On to a small temple dedicated to women, then a very nice lunch on board.
After lunch we cruised to the tomb of Minh Mang, an impressive mausoleum complex for a Nguyen dynasty emperor. Here we left the boat and boarded a (thankfully) air conditioned coach which drove to the tomb of Khai Dinh. This was exceptional as all the decoration to this concrete mausoleum was bas-relief mosaics made from fragments of ceramic items (plates, cups, even spoons) carefully cut and ground to shape.
Then onwards via a village where we watched joss sticks and conical hats being made, to the final tomb of Tu Duc. This was a cross between a mausoleum complex and a hunting lodge and quite an atmospheric place. Then back to Hue arriving at about 17:30.
Guide met us at hotel at 08:00 and walked to dragon boat on river. Sailed up Perfumed River to Thien Mu pagoda, a very pretty spot. On the way stopped to watch martial arts display. Amazing how often someone with just a bamboo stick can defeat another armed with two swords. This metaphor set the tone of the day as the guide, who was very knowledgeable and had good English, described most historical events in terms of the superiority of communism over feudalism and by analogy imperialism and capitalism. Weather very hot, about 37 or 38C and quite humid. On to a small temple dedicated to women, then a very nice lunch on board.
After lunch we cruised to the tomb of Minh Mang, an impressive mausoleum complex for a Nguyen dynasty emperor. Here we left the boat and boarded a (thankfully) air conditioned coach which drove to the tomb of Khai Dinh. This was exceptional as all the decoration to this concrete mausoleum was bas-relief mosaics made from fragments of ceramic items (plates, cups, even spoons) carefully cut and ground to shape.
Then onwards via a village where we watched joss sticks and conical hats being made, to the final tomb of Tu Duc. This was a cross between a mausoleum complex and a hunting lodge and quite an atmospheric place. Then back to Hue arriving at about 17:30.
Tuesday, March 2, 2010
Hanoi to Hue
Tuesday 2nd March
Arrived early in the morning at Hue and got taxi to hotel. Then walked around the citadel, its magnificent temple complexes, palaces, pavilions and residences before finding the ice cream parlour that Em and Steve found last year.
As journey times anywhere in this country seem to take so long (you can't get faster than 30mph on average by road or rail), decided to miss out Da Lang and instead fly from Da Nang to Ho Chi Minh city. Booked hotel in Hoi An and Jetstar flight, Also booked trip up Perfumed River tomorrow.
Monday 1st March
Walked down to French quarter, got lost and ended up by Lenin park which is still being reconstructed. Finally found the French quarter, but really the only lasting cultural legacies the French left here comprise the baguette and the habit of urinating on any convenient wall.
Back to hotel and taxi to station. After panic until ticket vouchers were exchanged for tickets, we boarded the train. Sharing a sleeping compartment with a pleasant Australian couple, we drank beer and stronger rice sourced spirits to aid sleep as we rumbled southwards.
Arrived early in the morning at Hue and got taxi to hotel. Then walked around the citadel, its magnificent temple complexes, palaces, pavilions and residences before finding the ice cream parlour that Em and Steve found last year.
As journey times anywhere in this country seem to take so long (you can't get faster than 30mph on average by road or rail), decided to miss out Da Lang and instead fly from Da Nang to Ho Chi Minh city. Booked hotel in Hoi An and Jetstar flight, Also booked trip up Perfumed River tomorrow.
Monday 1st March
Walked down to French quarter, got lost and ended up by Lenin park which is still being reconstructed. Finally found the French quarter, but really the only lasting cultural legacies the French left here comprise the baguette and the habit of urinating on any convenient wall.
Back to hotel and taxi to station. After panic until ticket vouchers were exchanged for tickets, we boarded the train. Sharing a sleeping compartment with a pleasant Australian couple, we drank beer and stronger rice sourced spirits to aid sleep as we rumbled southwards.
Sunday, February 28, 2010
Hanoi and Halong Bay
Sunday 28th February
Up early for breakfast then minibus to small boat back to rendezvous point. Slightly misty with the karst islands at distance appearing to float above the sea. Reached the Halong Phoenix Cruiser where there was a demonstration of how to make Vietnamese spring rolls. Much enthusiasm for making them, but significantly less for eating the results. Sailed back to Halong city and then minibus back to Hanoi.
Saturday 27th February
Sleep disturbed by the patter of tiny feet on the deck overhead. I knew we weren't sinking because the rats had swum out to join the ship, they were not leaving it.
Woke up later amongst a flotilla of junks in a flat calm anchorage surrounded by islets. After breakfast, cruised to a rendezvous point where we transferred to a smaller boat. Sat on roof as we sailed amoungst islands and sea stacks to monkey island. The boat attempted to make land, but either the tide was wrong or the gangplank too short depending on your point of view. Watched monkeys chase tourists along the beach, and tourists chase them back. The monkeys didn't throw rocks, the tourists did.
Docked at Cat Ba island and a short minibus hop took us to the Holiday View Hotel, a 13 storey 1980's brutalist building but with good size, well appointed rooms. After lunch we hired a tandem and wobbled around town. Although there were 3 gears on the crank wheel and 6 on the rear axle, it was stuck in one which meant pushing uphill. When we returned it, the guy talked us into renting his scooter/moped/motorbike thing. Luckily it had automatic gears and we wobbled off even faster and into the national park along a road only one moped wide. Then we turned towards the sea and completed a tour of about a quarter of the island before it got dark.
Friday 26th February
Minibus picked us up at hotel and drove to Halong bay through a picturesque landscape populated by thousands of peasants planting rice by hand in the paddy fields. Such a waste of human potential and with education, the seedbed of aspirational trouble in the future.
The 'Halong Phoenix' cruiser is a wooden craft built like a Chinese junk, but with spacious, well appointed cabins and very good food. The scenery was magnificent with hundreds of limestone islets with precipitous sea cliffs rising out of an almost calm sunlit sea.
In the afternoon we went by lighter to the Sung Sot cave, a stupendous series of limestone caverns with rippled roofs due to former wave action. The lighter then took us to platform where we embarked in kayaks for a 'hollow' island. The entrance was through a cave, and when you emerged the other side it became clear that the whole of the centre of the island must have been a collapsed cavern. Apart from a handful of kayaks, the only other inhabitants of the island were monkeys although we didn't see any. However above us sea eagles soared imperiously, spiralling skywards on up currents next to the cliffs.
Thursday 25th February
Walked to Ho Chi Minh's mausoleum, a massive Soviet style building with stern faced armed guards. Ho looked serenely avuncular in his glass coffin. His house, cars and lifestyle were spartan and his philosophy possibly as Confucian as it was communist. The adjoining museum was splendid with historical artefacts, art and philosophy all displayed in exciting and entertaining ways.
Then walked to the Temple of Literature which was effectively a Confucian university founded a thousand years ago, failed to book train tickets to Hue, then lunch at the same restaurant as last night.
Back at the hotel, Sandy the friendly receptionist, found that she could only get tickets for us on the King Train to Hue on Monday. However she moved our last night at the hotel to Sunday and booked us a three day trip to Halong bay in between. So we will keep busy and the schedule has only slipped one day.
Then off again to start a walking tour of the old quarter, including a stuffed 250Kg turtle at the temple on the lake.
Up early for breakfast then minibus to small boat back to rendezvous point. Slightly misty with the karst islands at distance appearing to float above the sea. Reached the Halong Phoenix Cruiser where there was a demonstration of how to make Vietnamese spring rolls. Much enthusiasm for making them, but significantly less for eating the results. Sailed back to Halong city and then minibus back to Hanoi.
Saturday 27th February
Sleep disturbed by the patter of tiny feet on the deck overhead. I knew we weren't sinking because the rats had swum out to join the ship, they were not leaving it.
Woke up later amongst a flotilla of junks in a flat calm anchorage surrounded by islets. After breakfast, cruised to a rendezvous point where we transferred to a smaller boat. Sat on roof as we sailed amoungst islands and sea stacks to monkey island. The boat attempted to make land, but either the tide was wrong or the gangplank too short depending on your point of view. Watched monkeys chase tourists along the beach, and tourists chase them back. The monkeys didn't throw rocks, the tourists did.
Docked at Cat Ba island and a short minibus hop took us to the Holiday View Hotel, a 13 storey 1980's brutalist building but with good size, well appointed rooms. After lunch we hired a tandem and wobbled around town. Although there were 3 gears on the crank wheel and 6 on the rear axle, it was stuck in one which meant pushing uphill. When we returned it, the guy talked us into renting his scooter/moped/motorbike thing. Luckily it had automatic gears and we wobbled off even faster and into the national park along a road only one moped wide. Then we turned towards the sea and completed a tour of about a quarter of the island before it got dark.
Friday 26th February
Minibus picked us up at hotel and drove to Halong bay through a picturesque landscape populated by thousands of peasants planting rice by hand in the paddy fields. Such a waste of human potential and with education, the seedbed of aspirational trouble in the future.
The 'Halong Phoenix' cruiser is a wooden craft built like a Chinese junk, but with spacious, well appointed cabins and very good food. The scenery was magnificent with hundreds of limestone islets with precipitous sea cliffs rising out of an almost calm sunlit sea.
In the afternoon we went by lighter to the Sung Sot cave, a stupendous series of limestone caverns with rippled roofs due to former wave action. The lighter then took us to platform where we embarked in kayaks for a 'hollow' island. The entrance was through a cave, and when you emerged the other side it became clear that the whole of the centre of the island must have been a collapsed cavern. Apart from a handful of kayaks, the only other inhabitants of the island were monkeys although we didn't see any. However above us sea eagles soared imperiously, spiralling skywards on up currents next to the cliffs.
Thursday 25th February
Walked to Ho Chi Minh's mausoleum, a massive Soviet style building with stern faced armed guards. Ho looked serenely avuncular in his glass coffin. His house, cars and lifestyle were spartan and his philosophy possibly as Confucian as it was communist. The adjoining museum was splendid with historical artefacts, art and philosophy all displayed in exciting and entertaining ways.
Then walked to the Temple of Literature which was effectively a Confucian university founded a thousand years ago, failed to book train tickets to Hue, then lunch at the same restaurant as last night.
Back at the hotel, Sandy the friendly receptionist, found that she could only get tickets for us on the King Train to Hue on Monday. However she moved our last night at the hotel to Sunday and booked us a three day trip to Halong bay in between. So we will keep busy and the schedule has only slipped one day.
Then off again to start a walking tour of the old quarter, including a stuffed 250Kg turtle at the temple on the lake.
Wednesday, February 24, 2010
Vientiane to Hanoi
Wednesday 23rd February
After a hearty breakfast we were driven to Wattay airport, only a quarter of an hour or so from the centre. There we caught a Lao Air turboprop to Hanoi, crossing hundreds of miles of jungle covered mountains with frequent clouds of smoke haze from slash and burn agriculture. No sign of soil erosion though.
At Hanoi airport we were met by a driver who took us the 35km to the Lakeside Hotel in the centre of the old town. Beside the new highway were endless peasants in conical straw hats tending strips of rice paddy, a sort of rural Lowry scene.
We walked around the lake in the middle of the old town, withdrew two million Dong from an ATM ( All bearing Ho Chi Minh's head), then ventured a kilometre or so eastwards to the Quin An Ngon restaurant on Phan Boi Chau.
This was a frenetically busy canvas covered courtyard filled with bench seats and lined with smoking cooking pots. The food was magnificent. Thanks to Em for recommending it and to Christine for having the courage to cross the innumerable roads to get there ( There are two million motorbikes in Hanoi and we think most were driving along our route.)
After a hearty breakfast we were driven to Wattay airport, only a quarter of an hour or so from the centre. There we caught a Lao Air turboprop to Hanoi, crossing hundreds of miles of jungle covered mountains with frequent clouds of smoke haze from slash and burn agriculture. No sign of soil erosion though.
At Hanoi airport we were met by a driver who took us the 35km to the Lakeside Hotel in the centre of the old town. Beside the new highway were endless peasants in conical straw hats tending strips of rice paddy, a sort of rural Lowry scene.
We walked around the lake in the middle of the old town, withdrew two million Dong from an ATM ( All bearing Ho Chi Minh's head), then ventured a kilometre or so eastwards to the Quin An Ngon restaurant on Phan Boi Chau.
This was a frenetically busy canvas covered courtyard filled with bench seats and lined with smoking cooking pots. The food was magnificent. Thanks to Em for recommending it and to Christine for having the courage to cross the innumerable roads to get there ( There are two million motorbikes in Hanoi and we think most were driving along our route.)
Tuesday, February 23, 2010
Vientiane
Tuesday 22nd February
Yesterday evening we strolled around town as far as the peace monument. This is an asian version of the Arc de Triomphe except in the medium of reinforced concrete. Apparently they ran out of cement before it was completed, and finished it with cement donated by the USA to lengthen the airport. This has given it the local nickname of 'the vertical runway'.
We stopped beside the Mekong for a beer, but the river was about a mile away due to the low water level, and the area was too smelly to consider eating. We went to a retaurant where street children were training to be chefs, waiters and waitresses and ate some of the best food of the journey so far.
Met a Finnish hydrology PhD student who said that contrary to what Adisak had told us, there is currently insufficient capacity in the 25 dams in the Mekong catchment to materially reduce the flow, however another 75 or so are planned.
This morning we caught a tuk tuk to an amazing gilded concrete stupa called That Luang, then walked several miles back into town via the Morning Market. In the afternoon walked to the Ho Phra Keo musum, a superb collection of buddhas in a restored royal chapel, and the Wat Sisaket opposite. The latter was the only building left standing when the Thais sacked the city, and differs from the restored wats by having original frescos, raked pillars and a dovecote-like interior with each niche occupied by several buddha figurines.
This city doesn't feel like a capital, more like a provincial administrative centre and if it wasn't for the occasional hammer and sickle flag and the midnight curfew you wouldn't think it was communist either.
Yesterday evening we strolled around town as far as the peace monument. This is an asian version of the Arc de Triomphe except in the medium of reinforced concrete. Apparently they ran out of cement before it was completed, and finished it with cement donated by the USA to lengthen the airport. This has given it the local nickname of 'the vertical runway'.
We stopped beside the Mekong for a beer, but the river was about a mile away due to the low water level, and the area was too smelly to consider eating. We went to a retaurant where street children were training to be chefs, waiters and waitresses and ate some of the best food of the journey so far.
Met a Finnish hydrology PhD student who said that contrary to what Adisak had told us, there is currently insufficient capacity in the 25 dams in the Mekong catchment to materially reduce the flow, however another 75 or so are planned.
This morning we caught a tuk tuk to an amazing gilded concrete stupa called That Luang, then walked several miles back into town via the Morning Market. In the afternoon walked to the Ho Phra Keo musum, a superb collection of buddhas in a restored royal chapel, and the Wat Sisaket opposite. The latter was the only building left standing when the Thais sacked the city, and differs from the restored wats by having original frescos, raked pillars and a dovecote-like interior with each niche occupied by several buddha figurines.
This city doesn't feel like a capital, more like a provincial administrative centre and if it wasn't for the occasional hammer and sickle flag and the midnight curfew you wouldn't think it was communist either.
Monday, February 22, 2010
Luang Pradang to Vientiane
Sunday February 21st
Tuk tuk arrived on time and took us to the bus station where we boarded the VIP coach. This was amusing because someone had numbered the backs of the seats in magic marker, got it wrong and put an indistinct cross through each number. They had then tried again (successfully) writing on the side beneath the window. Consequently with two sets of numbers and at least six different nationalities trying to decipher them, seating everyone took a lot of discussion and time.
The trip south was very comfortable, we had air conditioning and increasingly dramatic scenery with near vertically sided high mountains of limestone. The coach crawled up mountains at about 25mph and crawled down again. The road was well surfaced, but narrow and twisty following the topography. We stopped at a wayside canteen and were fed a delicious lunch of boiled vegetables and miso-like soup.
Arriving in Vang Veng, we took an overcrowded tuk tuk to the Villavay guesthouse, where I am writing this on the verandah of our bungalow before going to see what the town is like.
The view across the river is spectacular, rounded top bare or partially forested limestone mountains rising vertically from the edges of the plain. The town is full of loud Australian bars and saloons full of twenty-somethings attentively watching videos of cartoons on televisions. This isn't however what they are seeing, we know from young travellers we met at the Gibbon Experience that they have imbibed 'happy' shakes or pizzas and are lost in worlds of their own. The 'happy' comestibles are laced with hallucinogenics. Youngsters come to Vang veng to go tubing down the river from bar to bar in the morning, then spend the rest of the day in drug induced torpor.
Dinner occurred on the terrace of a shack overlooking the river at sunset. Sounds romantic but actually entertaining as it was closer to farce with the diners complaining about erratic service and randomly selected dishes. It was a chaotic meal even by Lao standards ( and the word 'Laos' is suspiciously similar to 'Chaos').
Monday February 22nd
After a slightly less chaotic breakfast we were picked up by minibus and taken to the disused airstrip where an 'express' coach was waiting. This set off only half an hour late, driving through increasingly flatter landscape until we reached Vientiane. A hopelessly overcrowded saamlaw (songthaw) took us to the 'centre' which turned out to be only a block from the Lao Orchid hotel where we are now.
Tuk tuk arrived on time and took us to the bus station where we boarded the VIP coach. This was amusing because someone had numbered the backs of the seats in magic marker, got it wrong and put an indistinct cross through each number. They had then tried again (successfully) writing on the side beneath the window. Consequently with two sets of numbers and at least six different nationalities trying to decipher them, seating everyone took a lot of discussion and time.
The trip south was very comfortable, we had air conditioning and increasingly dramatic scenery with near vertically sided high mountains of limestone. The coach crawled up mountains at about 25mph and crawled down again. The road was well surfaced, but narrow and twisty following the topography. We stopped at a wayside canteen and were fed a delicious lunch of boiled vegetables and miso-like soup.
Arriving in Vang Veng, we took an overcrowded tuk tuk to the Villavay guesthouse, where I am writing this on the verandah of our bungalow before going to see what the town is like.
The view across the river is spectacular, rounded top bare or partially forested limestone mountains rising vertically from the edges of the plain. The town is full of loud Australian bars and saloons full of twenty-somethings attentively watching videos of cartoons on televisions. This isn't however what they are seeing, we know from young travellers we met at the Gibbon Experience that they have imbibed 'happy' shakes or pizzas and are lost in worlds of their own. The 'happy' comestibles are laced with hallucinogenics. Youngsters come to Vang veng to go tubing down the river from bar to bar in the morning, then spend the rest of the day in drug induced torpor.
Dinner occurred on the terrace of a shack overlooking the river at sunset. Sounds romantic but actually entertaining as it was closer to farce with the diners complaining about erratic service and randomly selected dishes. It was a chaotic meal even by Lao standards ( and the word 'Laos' is suspiciously similar to 'Chaos').
Monday February 22nd
After a slightly less chaotic breakfast we were picked up by minibus and taken to the disused airstrip where an 'express' coach was waiting. This set off only half an hour late, driving through increasingly flatter landscape until we reached Vientiane. A hopelessly overcrowded saamlaw (songthaw) took us to the 'centre' which turned out to be only a block from the Lao Orchid hotel where we are now.
Saturday, February 20, 2010
Luang Pradang
Friday February 19th
Overcast and cold today (19 or 20C). We started following an architectural walking trail in the guidebook. Wandered through the food market with live catfish and even toads then climbed Phousi hill to see the Wats and the view. Came across Buddhas for every day of the week except Sunday, and His footprint. This was a shape where nodules had weathered out of concretionary limestone and a major triumph of religion over petrology.
Many Wats later, we visited the museum which was the former royal palace of this erstwhile capital city before the revolution. The rooms were modest in size and the decoration, whilst it tried to be impressive, only underlined the relative poverty of the country. Unfortunately someone must have been told that light is bad for museums, and all the rooms were in stygian gloom with people peering to see what the display cases contained ( mostly Buddhas). To be honest, even so long after the monarchy it isn't apparent that communism has done more for the people than tourism.
Wandered through the night market and remarked that the quality of so many 'handmade' local items was so identical, whilst the standard of workmanship everywhere else was so poor. Everything wooden here is nailed together and like the Thais, the people may have spirit houses but they don't have spirit levels.
Saturday February 20th
Started early to complete the walking trail, but got sidetracked into crossing Khan river via a rickety bamboo bridge. Then several impressive Wats later, found an even ricketier bamboo bridge which led us to a village on the far side specialising in silk weaving. Incredibly intricate, slow work for girls with excellent eyesight. Back to the main town after being relieved of thousands of kip, for lunch at the 'Tamarind' restaurant, or more precisely an education in the 'etiquette' of eating sticky rice with one's fingers and an education in how unpalatable some Lao food can be!
Finally finished the trail. Gosh, we can almost tell colonial French influenced Lao design from Lao influenced French design. Weather warmed up to regain a sunny 30C. This town may have low voltage, but probably has the highest wattage of anywhere we have been so far.
Overcast and cold today (19 or 20C). We started following an architectural walking trail in the guidebook. Wandered through the food market with live catfish and even toads then climbed Phousi hill to see the Wats and the view. Came across Buddhas for every day of the week except Sunday, and His footprint. This was a shape where nodules had weathered out of concretionary limestone and a major triumph of religion over petrology.
Many Wats later, we visited the museum which was the former royal palace of this erstwhile capital city before the revolution. The rooms were modest in size and the decoration, whilst it tried to be impressive, only underlined the relative poverty of the country. Unfortunately someone must have been told that light is bad for museums, and all the rooms were in stygian gloom with people peering to see what the display cases contained ( mostly Buddhas). To be honest, even so long after the monarchy it isn't apparent that communism has done more for the people than tourism.
Wandered through the night market and remarked that the quality of so many 'handmade' local items was so identical, whilst the standard of workmanship everywhere else was so poor. Everything wooden here is nailed together and like the Thais, the people may have spirit houses but they don't have spirit levels.
Saturday February 20th
Started early to complete the walking trail, but got sidetracked into crossing Khan river via a rickety bamboo bridge. Then several impressive Wats later, found an even ricketier bamboo bridge which led us to a village on the far side specialising in silk weaving. Incredibly intricate, slow work for girls with excellent eyesight. Back to the main town after being relieved of thousands of kip, for lunch at the 'Tamarind' restaurant, or more precisely an education in the 'etiquette' of eating sticky rice with one's fingers and an education in how unpalatable some Lao food can be!
Finally finished the trail. Gosh, we can almost tell colonial French influenced Lao design from Lao influenced French design. Weather warmed up to regain a sunny 30C. This town may have low voltage, but probably has the highest wattage of anywhere we have been so far.
Friday, February 19, 2010
Pictures so far
At the White Temple, south of Chiang Rai Christine leaving tree house
Eric, Catherine and Christine
with Mekong riverboat
Thursday, February 18, 2010
Chiang Rai to Luang Prabang
Thursday February 18th
After waking up to the usual cacophony of roosters and dogs, we left Pak Beng in an even more luxurious boat, again just the four of us and outnumbered by crew. Beautiful trip downstream through minor rapids with mountains either side of the valley. We stopped to walk around a Hmung tribe village, many smiling ladies selling handicrafts and kids, dogs and a pig milling around in the dust.
Then onwards with a superb lunch prepared onboard to Pak Ou caves. we had been travelling through increasingly metamorphic rocks, but here mountains of limestone presented towering river cliffs either side of the Mekong. The caves were overpopulated by thousands of votive figurines of Buddha.
Reaching Luang Prabang slightly before sunset, Phet organised a tuk tuk to carry us to the Lotus Villa Hotel. This is a pleasant elegantly styled boutique hotel set back from the waterfront on a quiet shady street.
Wednesday February 17th
Luckily managed to contact the boat company by email last night and told them which guesthouse we were staying in. We were picked up in the morning by Adisak, the manager, who explained that there was a problem with the river. The water level in the Mekong was so low after months of drought exacerbated by a Chinese dam upstream, that the boat we had booked on couldn't get up to Houei Xai. Instead he led us to another very comfortable riverboat with coach seats on which four of us cruised downstream through increasingly dramatic scenery. Lao villagers were clumped at the water's edge panning for gold whilst their children frolicked in the water, and water buffalo sat nonchalently chewing the cud. We were glad we hadn't taken one of the spray drenched garish long tailed speed boats which zipped past us with their crash-helmet wearing passengers.
Our on-board guide, Phet, explained that the very expensive boat we were otherwise thinking of taking had sunk the previous week after hitting a rock, and we could believe it because there were innumerable jagged rocks sticking out of the riverbed. Two thirds of the way, we had to abandon our boat because of impassable rapids, and walk for twenty minutes scrambling up and down the sandy riverbank to reach another boat downstream. This took us onwards to Pak Beng, a small hamlet (or Lao city) with a comfortable hotel where we stayed the night.
Tuesday February 16th
Up at 6.30am to trek to see or hear gibbons, but again no luck. This time possibly because the trek looped around the guides' camp and I don't expect any self respecting gibbon would have fancied the area. Then a pleasant trek interspersed with seven zipwires back to the base village, and the long dusty trip back to our guesthouse in Houei Xai.
Monday February 15th
Up at 6am to trek to see or hear gibbons, but they were all hiding and silent. Then a long trek to another tree house. The afternoon spent zipping around the area ( except Christine who preferred her sudoku).
The only problem with zipping is that in order for gravity to work, the landing platform needs to be lower than the launch platform. This means that you need to regain thirty metres or so in elevation which is hard work and sticky at these temperatures. But I think the effort is worth it to glide almost half a kilometre across steep sided valleys, watching the jungle canopy drop away to several hundred metres beneath you.
Sunday February 14th
Up bright and early to deposit our rucksacks at the Gibbon Experience offices and leave in a songthaw with day bags. After about an hour and a half we turned off the main road, forded a river and then drove another hour and a half on a dusty, but not bumpy, soil road. Stopping at a village, the party of eight of us plus two guides walked for a couple of hours through jungle paths to the plunge pool of a waterfall. Everyone swam in the icy water or floated on a makeshift bamboo raft. After climbing out of the valley we were fitted with zipwire harnesses, Tthen more walking to the tree house.
The only access to the tree houses is by zipwire. No stairs, ladders, ropes or other means of getting in or out. The tree houses are built around a tree trunk about thirty metres above ground level, roughly hewn wooden platforms with a veranda and thatched roof. The loos have to be seen to be believed. They are the old French style ceramic squat affairs over a hole in the platform. Everything drops thirty metres to fertilise the roots of the tree below.
All meals are brought by the guides by zipwire, consisting of large quantities of sticky rice with pans of largely unidentifiable but tasty vegetables, possibly with some equally unidentifiable stir fried meat, or stir fried egg at breakfast time.
Saturday February 13th
Last year we were deprived of liberty by the Balinese, this year we were deprived of sleep by the Chinese. Throughout the night at 15 to 20 minute intervals, firecrackers were being set off at the Chinese temple about a quarter of a mile away, near the Lak Meang. Each barrage of small staccato explosions is followed by one or two larger detonations which echo across the valley. It is now 7.30 in the morning and they are still at it. The year of the tiger may be auspicious for some, but for most in this area it has started with a completely sleepless night.
However, nothing daunted we had persuaded the hotel to take us to the bus station rather than the airport and caught the 10am bus to Chiang Khong. The bus was quite comfortable and after just over two hours deposited us at the outskirts of Chiang Khong. A frenzied tuk-tuk driver sped through the town and dropped us at the Thai river border. Here after perfunctory inspections we bought tickets for the Mekong crossing. You wander down the shore to the sandy river edge where various motorised canoes are beached and climb on. The river is quite narrow in the dry season and the crossing to Houei Xai only takes a few minutes. The Lao side is more officious with visa on arrival details, but a little lighter in the wallet and sandier more generally we arrived at our chosen guest house, the Saybadee. Even better, the guide book suggested the unpromising looking Nutpop restaurant that surprised us by producing food of such presentation and quality that it would not have been out of place in London or Paris.
After waking up to the usual cacophony of roosters and dogs, we left Pak Beng in an even more luxurious boat, again just the four of us and outnumbered by crew. Beautiful trip downstream through minor rapids with mountains either side of the valley. We stopped to walk around a Hmung tribe village, many smiling ladies selling handicrafts and kids, dogs and a pig milling around in the dust.
Then onwards with a superb lunch prepared onboard to Pak Ou caves. we had been travelling through increasingly metamorphic rocks, but here mountains of limestone presented towering river cliffs either side of the Mekong. The caves were overpopulated by thousands of votive figurines of Buddha.
Reaching Luang Prabang slightly before sunset, Phet organised a tuk tuk to carry us to the Lotus Villa Hotel. This is a pleasant elegantly styled boutique hotel set back from the waterfront on a quiet shady street.
Wednesday February 17th
Luckily managed to contact the boat company by email last night and told them which guesthouse we were staying in. We were picked up in the morning by Adisak, the manager, who explained that there was a problem with the river. The water level in the Mekong was so low after months of drought exacerbated by a Chinese dam upstream, that the boat we had booked on couldn't get up to Houei Xai. Instead he led us to another very comfortable riverboat with coach seats on which four of us cruised downstream through increasingly dramatic scenery. Lao villagers were clumped at the water's edge panning for gold whilst their children frolicked in the water, and water buffalo sat nonchalently chewing the cud. We were glad we hadn't taken one of the spray drenched garish long tailed speed boats which zipped past us with their crash-helmet wearing passengers.
Our on-board guide, Phet, explained that the very expensive boat we were otherwise thinking of taking had sunk the previous week after hitting a rock, and we could believe it because there were innumerable jagged rocks sticking out of the riverbed. Two thirds of the way, we had to abandon our boat because of impassable rapids, and walk for twenty minutes scrambling up and down the sandy riverbank to reach another boat downstream. This took us onwards to Pak Beng, a small hamlet (or Lao city) with a comfortable hotel where we stayed the night.
Tuesday February 16th
Up at 6.30am to trek to see or hear gibbons, but again no luck. This time possibly because the trek looped around the guides' camp and I don't expect any self respecting gibbon would have fancied the area. Then a pleasant trek interspersed with seven zipwires back to the base village, and the long dusty trip back to our guesthouse in Houei Xai.
Monday February 15th
Up at 6am to trek to see or hear gibbons, but they were all hiding and silent. Then a long trek to another tree house. The afternoon spent zipping around the area ( except Christine who preferred her sudoku).
The only problem with zipping is that in order for gravity to work, the landing platform needs to be lower than the launch platform. This means that you need to regain thirty metres or so in elevation which is hard work and sticky at these temperatures. But I think the effort is worth it to glide almost half a kilometre across steep sided valleys, watching the jungle canopy drop away to several hundred metres beneath you.
Sunday February 14th
Up bright and early to deposit our rucksacks at the Gibbon Experience offices and leave in a songthaw with day bags. After about an hour and a half we turned off the main road, forded a river and then drove another hour and a half on a dusty, but not bumpy, soil road. Stopping at a village, the party of eight of us plus two guides walked for a couple of hours through jungle paths to the plunge pool of a waterfall. Everyone swam in the icy water or floated on a makeshift bamboo raft. After climbing out of the valley we were fitted with zipwire harnesses, Tthen more walking to the tree house.
The only access to the tree houses is by zipwire. No stairs, ladders, ropes or other means of getting in or out. The tree houses are built around a tree trunk about thirty metres above ground level, roughly hewn wooden platforms with a veranda and thatched roof. The loos have to be seen to be believed. They are the old French style ceramic squat affairs over a hole in the platform. Everything drops thirty metres to fertilise the roots of the tree below.
All meals are brought by the guides by zipwire, consisting of large quantities of sticky rice with pans of largely unidentifiable but tasty vegetables, possibly with some equally unidentifiable stir fried meat, or stir fried egg at breakfast time.
Saturday February 13th
Last year we were deprived of liberty by the Balinese, this year we were deprived of sleep by the Chinese. Throughout the night at 15 to 20 minute intervals, firecrackers were being set off at the Chinese temple about a quarter of a mile away, near the Lak Meang. Each barrage of small staccato explosions is followed by one or two larger detonations which echo across the valley. It is now 7.30 in the morning and they are still at it. The year of the tiger may be auspicious for some, but for most in this area it has started with a completely sleepless night.
However, nothing daunted we had persuaded the hotel to take us to the bus station rather than the airport and caught the 10am bus to Chiang Khong. The bus was quite comfortable and after just over two hours deposited us at the outskirts of Chiang Khong. A frenzied tuk-tuk driver sped through the town and dropped us at the Thai river border. Here after perfunctory inspections we bought tickets for the Mekong crossing. You wander down the shore to the sandy river edge where various motorised canoes are beached and climb on. The river is quite narrow in the dry season and the crossing to Houei Xai only takes a few minutes. The Lao side is more officious with visa on arrival details, but a little lighter in the wallet and sandier more generally we arrived at our chosen guest house, the Saybadee. Even better, the guide book suggested the unpromising looking Nutpop restaurant that surprised us by producing food of such presentation and quality that it would not have been out of place in London or Paris.
Friday, February 12, 2010
Chiang Rai
Friday 12th February
Walked to bus station and caught bus to Wat Rong Khun ( the White Temple). Luckily the man at the information desk could translate and told the driver where we wanted to go, and the driver later told the conductor who made sure we alighted at the correct place.
The wat is about 15km southwest of Chiang Rai, close to the road and is a modern masterpiece. In traditional form, it is entirely coloured white but highlighted with a mosaic of millions of mirror inserts. We were told that a bus might be around in an hour to take us back, but as we reached the main road a songthaw pulled up and whisked us back to town in time for lunch. Tomorrow we enter Laos, so next post is uncertain!
Thursday 11th February
After a breakfast by the lazy flowing river to which Michael Winner would have given his sole superlative 'historic',we Walked into town to find the bus station. Buses to Chiang Khong ( for the Lao border) are frequent and well signed.
Saw lots of Wats on the way including one which had the Emerald Buddha, now in Bangkok but replaced by a 1.5m tall replica carved from a solid piece of jade. As the replica isn't allowed to be the same as the original, it is a few millimeters shorter. Also marvelled at the town clocktower, an exuberance of gilded flame shapes in modern Thai rococo style.
Back to the hotel for a swim, and then walked to see the town's Lak Meang. This is a recent revival of the Buddhist scematic view of the universe, and as it consisted of concentric circles of innumerable phalluses, Christine concluded that the Buddhists had a male viewpoint.
Later took a bicycle rickshaw to the night market and drank Singha beer whilst slight Thai girls gracefully performed traditional dances to both ancient and modern music.
Tuesday 9th February - Wednesday 10th February
Put our rucksacks on our backs at 7am and walked through the cold to Reading station to catch the Rail-Air coach to Heathrow. Slow traffic delayed the coach, which instead of taking us to terminal 3 dumped us at the central bus station so we had an extra quarter of a mile to walk.
The flight was excellent though, Thai Airways are so attentive and we landed at Bangkok slightly ahead of schedule early Wednesday morning, having lost 7 hours.
Because we had booked the onward flight to Chiang Rai separately, we went through immigration and customs at Bangkok and checked in for the domestic flight. Despite earlier worries about visas everything went smoothly, there were no delays and we landed without incident at Chiang Rai after an hour's comfortable flight.
The hotel minibus was at the airport to pick us up and transfer us to a 6th floor suite at the Dusit Island Resort. The walls are glass on three sides and the bed has enough space for polygamy. The hotel has a fabulous location on an island in the Mae Kok river and I write thislooking out over the sun setting behind the mountains on one side and the river on the other. We had a couple of hours sleep followed by lunch and a swim, and now we will attempt to stay up until 10pm. Unlike the temperatures we left, it is a beautiful 30 degrees centigrade here.
Walked to bus station and caught bus to Wat Rong Khun ( the White Temple). Luckily the man at the information desk could translate and told the driver where we wanted to go, and the driver later told the conductor who made sure we alighted at the correct place.
The wat is about 15km southwest of Chiang Rai, close to the road and is a modern masterpiece. In traditional form, it is entirely coloured white but highlighted with a mosaic of millions of mirror inserts. We were told that a bus might be around in an hour to take us back, but as we reached the main road a songthaw pulled up and whisked us back to town in time for lunch. Tomorrow we enter Laos, so next post is uncertain!
Thursday 11th February
After a breakfast by the lazy flowing river to which Michael Winner would have given his sole superlative 'historic',we Walked into town to find the bus station. Buses to Chiang Khong ( for the Lao border) are frequent and well signed.
Saw lots of Wats on the way including one which had the Emerald Buddha, now in Bangkok but replaced by a 1.5m tall replica carved from a solid piece of jade. As the replica isn't allowed to be the same as the original, it is a few millimeters shorter. Also marvelled at the town clocktower, an exuberance of gilded flame shapes in modern Thai rococo style.
Back to the hotel for a swim, and then walked to see the town's Lak Meang. This is a recent revival of the Buddhist scematic view of the universe, and as it consisted of concentric circles of innumerable phalluses, Christine concluded that the Buddhists had a male viewpoint.
Later took a bicycle rickshaw to the night market and drank Singha beer whilst slight Thai girls gracefully performed traditional dances to both ancient and modern music.
Tuesday 9th February - Wednesday 10th February
Put our rucksacks on our backs at 7am and walked through the cold to Reading station to catch the Rail-Air coach to Heathrow. Slow traffic delayed the coach, which instead of taking us to terminal 3 dumped us at the central bus station so we had an extra quarter of a mile to walk.
The flight was excellent though, Thai Airways are so attentive and we landed at Bangkok slightly ahead of schedule early Wednesday morning, having lost 7 hours.
Because we had booked the onward flight to Chiang Rai separately, we went through immigration and customs at Bangkok and checked in for the domestic flight. Despite earlier worries about visas everything went smoothly, there were no delays and we landed without incident at Chiang Rai after an hour's comfortable flight.
The hotel minibus was at the airport to pick us up and transfer us to a 6th floor suite at the Dusit Island Resort. The walls are glass on three sides and the bed has enough space for polygamy. The hotel has a fabulous location on an island in the Mae Kok river and I write thislooking out over the sun setting behind the mountains on one side and the river on the other. We had a couple of hours sleep followed by lunch and a swim, and now we will attempt to stay up until 10pm. Unlike the temperatures we left, it is a beautiful 30 degrees centigrade here.
Wednesday, February 3, 2010
Preparations....
We've been jabbed with inocculations, sent away for visas, booked flights and boats. The biggest unexpected expense has been anti-malaria tablets. Yesterday we bought rucksacks. Just got to pack them and we are off!
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